19 Oct 2010
Does Eataly strike a chord for those desirous of food made close to home, with its house-made bread and mozzarella, its fresh pasta and local bass? Or does it display carbon footprints to rival those of an airline, with its dry pastas shipped in from Naples, its prosciutto from Friuli, its October-grown organic strawberries from Central and Southern California, from Florida, Central Mexico or Baja? Is Eataly good for us? Or is it the opposite?
The short answer is: yes. Yes to all those questions in different ways, to different degrees.
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Now that’s some good writing. Bravo, Sam Sifton.
PS Eataly sounds scary.
Critic’s Notebook - An Appraisal of Eataly, the Manhattan Italian Food Hall - NYTimes.com
